From the Original Text

“Slanting hem-stitch—Bring out your needle and thread, two or three threads above the edge of the turning, between the first and second of the three cross-threads that compose the cluster, and then slip it under the cluster, from right to left. The loop must lie in front of the needle. When you have drawn up the stitch, put the needle in, one thread further on, and take up two threads. Fig. 64 shows the stitch on the right side.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

The slanting hem-stitch creates a distinctive diagonal pattern that adds elegant visual movement to hem edges. This sophisticated variation of traditional hem-stitching produces beautiful slanted effects that showcase advanced needlework skill.

What You’ll Need

  • Even-weave fabric — Prepared with drawn threads for hem-stitching
  • Fine matching thread — High-quality thread for precise work
  • Sharp needle — Size appropriate for your fabric and thread
  • Completed basic hem preparation — Foundation hem-stitch work required
  • Good lighting — Essential for seeing thread cluster details
  • Advanced skill — Requires mastery of basic hem-stitching first

How to Work the Slanting Hem-stitch

  1. Position needle 2-3 threads above the hem turning edge.
  2. Emerge between threads specifically between first and second cross-threads of cluster.
  3. Slip needle under cluster moving from right to left direction.
  4. Keep loop in front of the needle throughout the movement.
  5. Draw up the stitch carefully maintaining consistent tension.
  6. Move needle forward one thread further along the fabric.
  7. Take up two threads for the next stitch placement.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Slanting Hem-stitch

  • Master basic hem-stitching before attempting this advanced variation
  • Count threads precisely—accuracy is crucial for consistent slanting effect
  • Keep the loop consistently in front of needle for proper stitch formation
  • Work slowly and methodically—rushing will create uneven slants
  • Practice the needle movement on scraps to develop muscle memory
  • Use magnification if needed to see cluster thread separation clearly
  • Maintain even tension to prevent distortion of the slanted pattern

Traditional Uses

Slanting hem-stitch was reserved for the most sophisticated needlework projects:

  • Exhibition linens — Pieces displayed to demonstrate advanced skill
  • Master needleworker samples — Examples of technical excellence
  • Bridal trousseau masterpieces — Finest items in wedding collections
  • Formal presentation gifts — Linens for important occasions
  • Ecclesiastical vestments — Church textiles requiring finest finishing
  • Teaching examples — Demonstration pieces for advanced students
  • Competition entries — Needlework contests and guild exhibitions

Historical Note

The slanting hem-stitch represented the apex of Victorian hem-finishing artistry. Its sophisticated diagonal movement required such precise technique that only master needleworkers could execute it consistently. De Dillmont included specific figure references (63 and 64) showing both wrong and right sides, emphasizing the importance of visual learning for this complex technique. The slanting effect was considered particularly modern and dynamic in an era when most needlework featured straight, static patterns. Today, it remains one of the most challenging traditional hem-stitches to master.

The slanting hem-stitch creates a distinctive diagonal pattern that adds elegant visual movement to hem edges. This sophisticated variation of traditional hem-stitching produces beautiful slanted effects that showcase advanced needlework skill.