From the Original Text

“Single hem-stitch—Draw out, according to the coarseness of the stuff, two or four threads, below the edge of the turning, and tack your hem down to the line thus drawn. Fasten your thread in to the left, and work your hem from right to left, taking up three or four cross-threads at a time, and inserting your needle, immediately above, into the folded hem, three or four threads from the edge, and then drawing it out.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

The single hem-stitch is the foundation of all decorative hem finishing techniques. This classic method creates beautiful open-work edges by drawing out threads and grouping the remaining ones into elegant clusters.

What You’ll Need

  • Even-weave fabric — Linen, cotton, or other fabric with clear thread structure
  • Matching thread — Cotton or linen thread matching the fabric
  • Sharp needle — Size appropriate for your fabric and thread
  • Small scissors or seam ripper — For removing threads cleanly
  • Tweezers — For pulling out drawn threads
  • Ruler — For measuring consistent hem depth

How to Work the Single Hem-stitch

  1. Mark hem fold line at desired depth from fabric edge.
  2. Draw out 2-4 threads below the hem fold line, depending on fabric weight.
  3. Fold and tack hem down to the drawn thread line.
  4. Fasten thread at left side and work from right to left.
  5. Group 3-4 vertical threads together with your needle.
  6. Insert needle into hem 3-4 threads from the edge, above the grouped threads.
  7. Continue across maintaining consistent groupings and spacing.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Single Hem-stitch

  • Choose fabric thread count carefully—finer fabrics use fewer drawn threads
  • Keep thread groups consistent in size for even appearance
  • Work with good lighting to see thread structure clearly
  • Use fabric scissors to snip threads, then pull with tweezers
  • Practice on scraps first to establish your grouping rhythm
  • Keep tension even—too tight will distort the fabric
  • Mark starting and ending points lightly for consistent depth

Traditional Uses

Single hem-stitch was fundamental for finishing fine household linens:

  • Table linens — Tablecloths, napkins, and runners
  • Bed linens — Fine sheets and pillowcases
  • Guest towels — Decorative bathroom and hand towels
  • Handkerchiefs — Both everyday and finest varieties
  • Altar linens — Church vestments and ceremonial cloths
  • Baby linens — Christening gowns and fine infant wear
  • Fringe prevention — Securing decorative fringed edges

Historical Note

Single hem-stitch was considered essential knowledge for any well-bred Victorian woman, as fine linens were a mark of household respectability. The technique required patience and skill, making hand-finished linens valuable family possessions passed down through generations. De Dillmont noted its use “for preventing the fringes…from ravelling,” showing its practical as well as decorative importance. The open-work effect created by drawn threads was both beautiful and functional, allowing air circulation while creating an elegant finish.

The single hem-stitch is the foundation of all decorative hem finishing techniques. This classic method creates beautiful open-work edges by drawing out threads and grouping the remaining ones into elegant clusters.