From the Original Text

“Second hem-stitch—Prepare your hem as for fig. 55, and work from left to right; with this difference, that after drawing two or three cross-threads together, from right to left, you skip the same number of perpendicular threads you took up below, and insert your needle downwards from above, bringing it out at the bottom edge of the hem. These stitches, which can be used for the right side also, form a kind of little tress, along the edge of the hem.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

The second hem-stitch creates a distinctive tress-like pattern along the hem edge. This variation of the basic hem-stitch works in the opposite direction and forms decorative braided clusters that can be used on both sides of the fabric.

What You’ll Need

  • Even-weave fabric — Prepared with drawn threads as for single hem-stitch
  • Matching thread — Cotton or linen thread in fabric color
  • Sharp needle — Size appropriate for drawn thread work
  • Good lighting — Essential for seeing thread groups clearly
  • Completed single hem-stitch — This technique builds on the basic version
  • Patience — Working left to right requires adjusted hand position

How to Work the Second Hem-stitch

  1. Prepare fabric exactly as for single hem-stitch with drawn threads.
  2. Work from left to right instead of right to left.
  3. Draw 2-3 cross threads together from right to left direction.
  4. Skip same number of threads that you grouped in the lower row.
  5. Insert needle downward from above through the hem.
  6. Bring needle out at the bottom edge of the hem.
  7. Continue across creating the distinctive tress pattern.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Second Hem-stitch

  • Master single hem-stitch first—this builds directly on that foundation
  • Working left to right may feel awkward at first—practice builds muscle memory
  • Keep thread groups consistent with your base row for neat appearance
  • The “tress” effect comes from the directional change—embrace the pattern
  • This technique works beautifully on both fabric sides
  • Count threads carefully when skipping to maintain pattern alignment
  • Use slightly looser tension to accommodate the crossing thread pattern

Traditional Uses

Second hem-stitch was chosen when a more decorative edge was desired:

  • Formal table linens — Special occasion tablecloths and napkins
  • Ceremonial linens — Wedding and baptismal cloths
  • Guest linens — Items meant to impress visitors
  • Heirloom pieces — Linens intended to be passed down
  • Display towels — Decorative pieces for special occasions
  • Altar cloths — Religious textiles requiring finest finishing
  • Reversible items — Where both sides needed to be attractive

Historical Note

The second hem-stitch represented advanced skill in Victorian needlework—it required mastery of the basic technique plus the dexterity to work in the opposite direction while maintaining pattern consistency. The “little tress” effect was highly prized for formal linens, as it created a more elaborate appearance without requiring additional materials. This technique was often taught in finishing schools as a mark of accomplishment, and linens featuring second hem-stitch were displayed prominently in well-appointed homes.

The second hem-stitch creates a distinctive tress-like pattern along the hem edge. This variation of the basic hem-stitch works in the opposite direction and forms decorative braided clusters that can be used on both sides of the fabric.