From the Original Text
“Ladder stitch hem. Complete the hem, as already directed in fig. 55, then draw out three or five threads more, turn the work round, and repeat the process, taking up the same clusters of threads which you took up in the first row of stitches, thus forming little perpendicular bars.”
— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886
Modern Step-by-Step Instructions
The ladder stitch hem creates dramatic perpendicular bars that resemble a ladder along the fabric edge. This technique requires two rows of drawn threads and creates one of the most striking open-work hem finishes.
What You’ll Need
- Even-weave fabric — Medium to heavy weight for best bar formation
- Matching thread — Strong thread that won’t break under tension
- Sharp needle — Appropriate size for your fabric weight
- Completed single hem-stitch — This technique builds on the basic version
- Thread removal tools — Scissors and tweezers for clean thread drawing
- Magnification — Optional but helpful for precise thread counting
How to Work the Ladder Stitch Hem
- Complete single hem-stitch following the basic technique first.
- Draw out 3-5 more threads above your completed hem-stitch row.
- Turn work around to approach from the opposite direction.
- Identify thread clusters from your first row for alignment.
- Take up same clusters that you grouped in the first row.
- Work systematically across maintaining perfect alignment.
- Form perpendicular bars by connecting corresponding clusters.
Expert Tips for the Perfect Ladder Stitch Hem
- Mark thread groups lightly in first row to ensure perfect alignment
- Count threads carefully—misalignment will be very obvious
- Use good lighting and magnification for precise cluster matching
- Work with even tension to create uniform bar appearance
- Practice on scraps first—mistakes are difficult to correct
- Draw threads cleanly to avoid fraying that affects bar formation
- Consider fabric weight—heavier fabrics create more dramatic bars
Traditional Uses
Ladder stitch hem was reserved for the most elegant and formal applications:
- Ceremonial table linens — Wedding and holiday tablecloths
- Formal guest towels — Display pieces for important occasions
- Altar linens — Church vestments and communion cloths
- Heirloom bed linens — Special sheets and pillowcases
- Bridal trousseau items — Finest linens for new households
- Exhibition pieces — Needlework shown at fairs and competitions
- Gifts for dignitaries — Formal presentations requiring finest work
Historical Note
The ladder stitch hem represented the pinnacle of drawn-thread hemming techniques in the Victorian era. Its dramatic visual impact made it a favorite for pieces intended to showcase needlework skill—often featured in trousseau displays and needlework exhibitions. The technique required exceptional precision, as any misalignment of the thread clusters would be immediately obvious. Master needleworkers took pride in creating perfectly regular “ladders,” and such pieces were treasured family heirlooms often reserved for the most special occasions.
The ladder stitch hem creates dramatic perpendicular bars that resemble a ladder along the fabric edge. This technique requires two rows of drawn threads and creates one of the most striking open-work hem finishes.