From the Original Text

“Double hem-stitch. Begin as in fig. 55, forming your clusters of an even number of threads; and then, in making your second row of stitches, draw half the threads of one cluster, and half of the next together, thereby making them slant, first one way and then the other.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

The double hem-stitch creates elegant zigzag patterns by splitting and recombining thread clusters. This sophisticated technique produces decorative slanting effects that add visual interest to fine linens.

What You’ll Need

  • Even-weave fabric — Must allow precise thread counting
  • Matching thread — High-quality thread for neat cluster division
  • Sharp needle — Size appropriate for your thread and fabric
  • Mathematical precision — Clusters must contain even numbers of threads
  • Completed single hem-stitch base — Foundation for the double technique
  • Good lighting — Essential for accurate thread splitting

How to Work the Double Hem-stitch

  1. Begin with single hem-stitch ensuring clusters have even numbers of threads.
  2. Count threads carefully in each cluster to confirm even numbers.
  3. Draw out additional threads above your completed first row.
  4. Start second row by taking half the threads from one cluster.
  5. Combine with half threads from the adjacent cluster.
  6. Continue across splitting and recombining systematically.
  7. Create alternating slants that form the characteristic zigzag pattern.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Double Hem-stitch

  • Plan cluster sizes carefully—must be even numbers for clean splitting
  • Use consistent thread counts throughout for uniform zigzag pattern
  • Work slowly and methodically—rushing will create uneven effects
  • Mark cluster boundaries lightly if needed for accurate splitting
  • Keep tension consistent to maintain pattern regularity
  • Practice thread counting on scraps before working on good fabric
  • Consider using magnification for precise thread identification

Traditional Uses

Double hem-stitch was chosen for pieces requiring sophisticated decorative effects:

  • Fine table linens — Elegant dining room textiles
  • Formal handkerchiefs — Accessories for special occasions
  • Bridal linens — Wedding trousseau pieces
  • Guest room textiles — Items to impress important visitors
  • Exhibition needlework — Pieces displayed to show skill
  • Ceremonial cloths — Religious and civic occasions
  • Heirloom pieces — Family treasures passed down generations

Historical Note

The double hem-stitch demonstrated advanced mathematical thinking applied to needlework—the requirement for even-numbered clusters and precise splitting showed the Victorian era’s appreciation for systematic, scientific approaches to traditional crafts. This technique was often featured in needlework manuals as an example of how basic techniques could be developed into sophisticated decorative effects through careful planning and precise execution. The zigzag pattern was considered particularly modern and fashionable in late 19th-century needlework.

The double hem-stitch creates elegant zigzag patterns by splitting and recombining thread clusters. This sophisticated technique produces decorative slanting effects that add visual interest to fine linens.