From the Original Text

“Antique hem-stitch. In the old, elaborate, linen needlework, we often meet two kinds of hem-stitching seldom found in modern books on needle-work. At the necessary depth for forming a narrow hem, a thread is drawn, in the case of very fine textures where the edge is rolled, not laid; then fasten in the working thread at the left, and work the stitches from left to right. Passing your needle, from right to left, under three or four threads, draw the thread round the cluster and carry your needle on, through as many threads of the upper layer of stuff, as you took up of the cluster.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

The antique hem-stitch preserves historical needlework techniques found in elaborate old linens. This sophisticated method creates elegant rolled hems with visible decorative threading on both sides of the fabric.

What You’ll Need

  • Very fine fabric — Sheer linens or fine cotton suitable for rolling
  • Fine matching thread — High-quality thread appropriate for delicate work
  • Extremely sharp needle — Size 10-12 for precise work
  • Exceptional skill — This technique requires considerable experience
  • Historical references — Examples of antique work for guidance
  • Patience — This is slow, meticulous work

How to Work the Antique Hem-stitch

  1. Draw single thread at depth needed for narrow hem.
  2. Roll edge rather than laying flat—crucial for fine fabrics.
  3. Fasten working thread at left side to begin.
  4. Work left to right following historical direction.
  5. Pass needle right to left under 3-4 threads to form clusters.
  6. Draw thread around cluster to secure the grouping.
  7. Carry needle through upper fabric layer matching cluster size.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Antique Hem-stitch

  • Study museum examples first—this technique requires visual understanding
  • Practice rolling hems on scraps before attempting the full technique
  • Use the finest needle possible while maintaining control
  • Work in excellent lighting with magnification if needed
  • Keep clusters small and consistent for authentic period appearance
  • Roll edge with consistent tension to maintain even width
  • This is museum-quality work—expect weeks to complete a single piece

Traditional Uses

Antique hem-stitch was reserved for the finest historical pieces:

  • Museum-quality linens — Pieces preserved as needlework examples
  • Ecclesiastical textiles — Church vestments and altar cloths
  • Royal household items — Linens for nobility and wealthy families
  • Bridal trousseau masterpieces — Finest pieces in wedding collections
  • Exhibition specimens — Needlework shown to demonstrate highest skill
  • Conservation projects — Reproducing historical techniques accurately
  • Master craftsman samples — Examples of supreme needlework skill

Historical Note

Thérèse de Dillmont noted that antique hem-stitch was found “in the old, elaborate, linen needlework” but was “seldom found in modern books on needle-work,” even in her 1886 era. This technique represents the pinnacle of historical needlework artistry—so sophisticated that it was already becoming lost by the late Victorian period. The method required not only exceptional technical skill but also deep understanding of historical techniques that were passed down through generations of master needleworkers. Today, it survives primarily in museum collections and conservation work.

The antique hem-stitch preserves historical needlework techniques found in elaborate old linens. This sophisticated method creates elegant rolled hems with visible decorative threading on both sides of the fabric.