From the Original Text

“Single three-rowed open-work—This, and the following patterns, are suitable for the headings of hems, and for connecting stripes of embroidery, and are also often used instead of lace, and lace insertion. Fig. 68 will be found specially useful, in cases where the object is, to produce a good deal of effect, at the cost of as little labour as possible. Make six rows of hem-stitching, as in fig. 55; the first and sixth rows to serve as a finish, above and below. The second and third, after drawing out six threads, the third and fourth after drawing out eight. The clusters must all consist of an even number of threads.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

Single three-rowed open-work creates impressive decorative effects with minimal labor investment. This sophisticated technique produces lace-like bands perfect for connecting embroidery elements or creating elegant heading treatments.

What You’ll Need

  • Even-weave fabric — Must allow precise thread counting and removal
  • Fine matching thread — High-quality thread for delicate work
  • Sharp needle — Size appropriate for fine open-work
  • Advanced hem-stitching skills — Requires mastery of basic techniques
  • Thread removal tools — Sharp scissors and tweezers
  • Excellent lighting — Essential for intricate interlacing work
  • Magnification — Helpful for seeing thread cluster details

How to Work the Single Three-rowed Open-work

  1. Create six rows of hem-stitching using basic technique as foundation.
  2. Position rows 1 and 6 as finishing borders above and below.
  3. Draw out 6 threads between rows 2 and 3.
  4. Draw out 8 threads between rows 3 and 4.
  5. Ensure even thread clusters throughout all rows.
  6. Divide perpendicular clusters in half for interlacing.
  7. Execute complex interlacing following specific needle movements described in original.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Single Three-rowed Open-work

  • Master basic hem-stitching completely before attempting this technique
  • Count threads meticulously—even numbers are crucial for proper clustering
  • Work with excellent lighting and consider using magnification
  • Don’t draw thread too tightly—maintains proper open-work appearance
  • Practice the interlacing movements on scraps first
  • Plan thread removal carefully—6 threads between rows 2-3, 8 between rows 3-4
  • This is master-level work—expect considerable time investment

Traditional Uses

Single three-rowed open-work served multiple decorative and practical purposes:

  • Hem headings — Elegant finishing for fine linens
  • Embroidery connections — Linking decorative stripes and elements
  • Lace substitution — Alternative to expensive purchased lace
  • Insertion bands — Decorative elements within larger pieces
  • Border treatments — Elegant edges for table linens
  • Garment details — Fine finishing on blouses and undergarments
  • Ecclesiastical work — Church vestments and altar linens

Historical Note

De Dillmont praised this technique as “specially useful…to produce a good deal of effect, at the cost of as little labour as possible”—high praise in an era when efficiency was valued alongside beauty. The technique represented the pinnacle of drawn-thread work, combining multiple hem-stitching variations into one sophisticated design. Its use “instead of lace” was particularly important when imported laces were expensive, allowing skilled needleworkers to create equally beautiful effects. Today, it remains one of the most challenging and impressive traditional open-work techniques.

Single three-rowed open-work creates impressive decorative effects with minimal labor investment. This sophisticated technique produces lace-like bands perfect for connecting embroidery elements or creating elegant heading treatments.