From the Original Text

“Open-work with winding stitch. Draw out the necessary number of horizontal threads, then wind the working thread round and round the perpendicular threads that are left, and finish the upper and lower edge with overcasting or button-hole stitch.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

Open-work with winding stitch creates elegant spiral effects by wrapping thread around the remaining fabric threads after drawing work. This technique produces distinctive coiled patterns that add both texture and visual interest to open-work areas.

What You’ll Need

  • Even-weave fabric — Linen or cotton with regular thread structure
  • Embroidery thread — Slightly heavier than fabric threads for visibility
  • Sharp needle — Size 22-26 for most applications
  • Embroidery scissors — For precise thread cutting
  • Embroidery hoop — Essential for maintaining proper tension
  • Good lighting — Important for seeing thread placement clearly
  • Patience — Winding requires consistent, repetitive motion

How to Work the Open-work with Winding Stitch

  1. Plan and mark your drawn thread area carefully.
  2. Draw out horizontal threads leaving perpendicular threads intact.
  3. Secure the edges with overcasting or buttonhole stitch.
  4. Begin at one end and anchor your working thread securely.
  5. Wind consistently around each perpendicular thread bundle.
  6. Keep wraps tight and evenly spaced for uniform appearance.
  7. Work systematically across the entire open-work area.
  8. Finish edges with coordinating overcasting or buttonhole work.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Open-work with Winding Stitch

  • Maintain consistent tension while winding—too tight will distort the fabric
  • Count wraps to ensure uniformity across all thread bundles
  • Use thread slightly thicker than fabric threads for best visibility
  • Work in good light to maintain even spacing of winds
  • Consider color contrast between winding thread and fabric for dramatic effect
  • Practice the winding motion on scraps to develop rhythm and consistency
  • Anchor new threads by weaving through existing winds, not knotting

Traditional Uses

Open-work with winding stitch was favored for applications requiring distinctive textural effects:

  • Decorative bands — Creating strips of textured openness
  • Garment trim — Adding sophisticated detail to clothing
  • Table linen borders — Elegant finishing for dining textiles
  • Handkerchief edging — Delicate decoration for personal linens
  • Blouse inserts — Fashion details for ladies’ wear
  • Altar cloth decoration — Religious textile ornamentation
  • Sampler techniques — Teaching various open-work methods

Historical Note

The winding stitch technique demonstrated the Victorian needleworker’s appreciation for textural variety within open-work. Unlike flat drawn-thread techniques, the spiral winding created three-dimensional effects that caught light and shadow beautifully. The method required considerable skill in maintaining consistent tension and spacing—qualities that marked the accomplished needleworker. De Dillmont’s instruction to “wind round and round” emphasized the repetitive nature that created the technique’s distinctive appearance. This approach reflected the era’s fascination with techniques that transformed simple materials into complex decorative effects through patient, skilled execution.

Open-work with winding stitch creates elegant spiral effects by wrapping thread around the remaining fabric threads after drawing work. This technique produces distinctive coiled patterns that add both texture and visual interest to open-work areas.