From the Original Text

“Open-work with rings. Draw out both horizontal and perpendicular threads, so as to form square openings. Group the threads that are left into clusters, then span the open spaces with rings, made by passing the thread several times across the space, and finish by overcasting these rings closely and thickly all round.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

Open-work with rings creates circular motifs within drawn-thread areas by forming thread rings that are then filled with decorative stitching. This technique combines structural modification with ornamental filling to create sophisticated geometric patterns.

What You’ll Need

  • Even-weave fabric — High-quality linen or cotton with regular structure
  • Embroidery thread — Thread appropriate for ring formation and overcasting
  • Sharp needle — Size suited to your thread and fabric weight
  • Embroidery scissors — For precise thread cutting
  • Embroidery hoop — Essential for maintaining fabric stability
  • Advanced skills — Requires experience with drawn thread techniques
  • Planning tools — Graph paper for designing ring placement

How to Work the Open-work with Rings

  1. Plan your design and mark areas for both horizontal and vertical thread removal.
  2. Draw out threads carefully to form square openings as planned.
  3. Group remaining threads into neat, even clusters.
  4. Create ring foundation by passing thread several times across each square opening.
  5. Form circular shape by adjusting thread placement and tension.
  6. Overcast rings closely with tight, even stitches covering all foundation threads.
  7. Work systematically across the entire open-work area.
  8. Finish edges with appropriate hemming or overcasting.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Open-work with Rings

  • Plan ring placement carefully using graph paper before beginning work
  • Make foundation threads evenly spaced for circular rather than oval rings
  • Keep overcasting stitches very close together for solid ring appearance
  • Maintain consistent tension when forming the ring foundation
  • Use thread that contrasts with fabric for dramatic ring definition
  • Work rings in consistent direction to maintain uniform appearance
  • Secure all thread ends by weaving through overcasting, not knotting
  • Consider ring size variations for more complex geometric patterns

Traditional Uses

Open-work with rings was particularly valued for creating geometric decorative effects:

  • Table linen centers — Creating focal points in dining textiles
  • Decorative panels — Geometric inserts in larger pieces
  • Garment details — Fashion elements for ladies’ clothing
  • Curtain borders — Sophisticated window treatment details
  • Altar cloth decoration — Religious textile ornamentation
  • Sampler work — Teaching complex open-work techniques
  • Exhibition pieces — Demonstrating advanced geometric design skills

Historical Note

The ring technique represented Victorian needleworkers’ mastery of geometric design within open-work. Drawing out both horizontal and perpendicular threads to form “square openings” demonstrated sophisticated planning skills. The transformation of these squares into circular rings showed the era’s appreciation for geometric contrast and complexity. De Dillmont’s instruction to overcast “closely and thickly” emphasized the importance of substantial ring formation. This technique reflected the period’s fascination with structured, architectural approaches to textile decoration—creating solid geometric elements within the openness of drawn-thread work.

Open-work with rings creates circular motifs within drawn-thread areas by forming thread rings that are then filled with decorative stitching. This technique combines structural modification with ornamental filling to create sophisticated geometric patterns.