From the Original Text

“Open-work with darning stitch. This kind of open-work requires great neatness and skill. Draw out a certain number of horizontal threads, then make loops upon the perpendicular ones that are left, and fill in the spaces with darning stitches, worked backwards and forwards.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

Open-work with darning stitch creates decorative patterns by drawing out threads and then filling the spaces with intricate darning techniques. This method combines the structural modification of the fabric with decorative needlework to create both openness and ornamental beauty.

What You’ll Need

  • Even-weave linen — High-quality fabric with regular thread structure
  • Fine embroidery thread — Thread that contrasts or complements fabric color
  • Sharp needle — Appropriate for thread and fabric weight
  • Embroidery scissors — For precision thread cutting
  • Embroidery hoop — Essential for maintaining fabric tension
  • Advanced skills — Requires experience with drawn thread work
  • Pattern planning — Graph paper for designing darning patterns

How to Work the Open-work with Darning Stitch

  1. Mark your area and carefully draw out the desired horizontal threads.
  2. Secure the edges with hemming or overcasting to prevent fraying.
  3. Work foundation loops on the remaining perpendicular threads.
  4. Plan your darning pattern—geometric designs work best.
  5. Begin darning by weaving thread back and forth across the open space.
  6. Vary the darning density to create pattern and visual interest.
  7. Keep tension even to maintain fabric stability while creating openness.
  8. Finish edges cleanly and secure all thread ends invisibly.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Open-work with Darning Stitch

  • Practice darning patterns on separate fabric before working on final piece
  • Keep darning tension consistent—too tight will pucker, too loose will sag
  • Plan your pattern carefully; changes are difficult once work is started
  • Use graph paper to design geometric darning patterns in advance
  • Work in good light—this technique requires seeing fine detail clearly
  • Secure thread ends by weaving them through existing darning, not knotting
  • Consider color gradations in your darning thread for sophisticated effects

Traditional Uses

Open-work with darning stitch was particularly valued for creating decorative elements that were both functional and beautiful:

  • Table runner inserts — Creating panels of decorative openness
  • Curtain details — Adding interest to window treatments
  • Blouse fronts — Fashionable decoration for ladies’ clothing
  • Pillowcase borders — Elegant finishing for fine linens
  • Altar cloth decoration — Religious textile ornamentation
  • Exhibition pieces — Demonstrating advanced needlework skills
  • Sampler work — Teaching complex open-work techniques

Historical Note

The combination of drawn thread work with darning represented a sophisticated understanding of textile structure and decoration. This technique required “great neatness and skill” as noted by de Dillmont, reflecting its status as advanced needlework. The method demonstrated the 19th-century needleworker’s ability to transform basic fabric into complex decorative surfaces. The technique bridged practical mending skills (darning) with decorative arts, showing how utilitarian knowledge could be elevated to create beauty. This integration of structural modification with decorative filling exemplified Victorian ideals of combining function with aesthetic achievement.

Open-work with darning stitch creates decorative patterns by drawing out threads and then filling the spaces with intricate darning techniques. This method combines the structural modification of the fabric with decorative needlework to create both openness and ornamental beauty.