From the Original Text

“Clustered open-work—Draw out from sixteen to eighteen threads, between two hem-stitched edges. Fasten your thread in, 3 m/m. above the seam-edge, and wind it three times round every two clusters, passing the needle, the third time, under the two first rounds, to fasten the thread. The thread, thus drawn through, must be left rather slack. A second row of stitches, similar to the first, and at the same distance from the bottom edge, completes this pattern.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

Clustered open-work creates decorative patterns by winding threads around grouped fabric threads within drawn-thread lanes. This technique produces elegant knotted effects that add texture and visual interest to open-work borders.

What You’ll Need

  • Even-weave fabric — Prepared with 16-18 drawn threads
  • Matching thread — High-quality thread for winding and knotting
  • Sharp needle — Size appropriate for the winding technique
  • Completed hem-stitched edges — Foundation borders for the open-work
  • Ruler — For measuring 3mm distances accurately
  • Good lighting — Essential for seeing cluster details

How to Work the Clustered Open-work

  1. Draw out 16-18 threads between two hem-stitched edges.
  2. Fasten thread 3mm above the seam edge to begin.
  3. Wind thread three times around every two clusters.
  4. On third winding pass needle under the first two rounds.
  5. Keep thread rather slack to maintain proper drape.
  6. Complete first row across the entire open-work area.
  7. Add second row at same distance from bottom edge to finish.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Clustered Open-work

  • Count drawn threads carefully—16-18 threads creates ideal proportions
  • Measure 3mm distance precisely for consistent appearance
  • Wind threads evenly but not too tightly—maintain flexibility
  • The third winding pass under first two rounds is crucial for security
  • Keep thread slack to prevent distortion of the open-work
  • Work systematically across to maintain consistent cluster groupings
  • Optional strengthening: work back over first thread with second thread

Traditional Uses

Clustered open-work was used for substantial decorative borders:

  • Table runner borders — Elegant dining room textiles
  • Towel decorations — Both practical and guest towels
  • Curtain hems — Window treatment finishing
  • Bedding borders — Sheet and pillowcase edges
  • Apron trims — Decorative elements on work garments
  • Handkerchief edges — Masculine and feminine accessories
  • Altar linens — Church textile decoration

Historical Note

Clustered open-work represented a middle ground between simple and complex drawn-thread techniques. The precise measurements (3mm, 16-18 threads) show the Victorian emphasis on mathematical precision in needlework. De Dillmont’s option to “work back over the first thread with a second” demonstrates the era’s focus on durability—these pieces were expected to withstand frequent washing and use. The technique’s balance of visual impact and practical execution made it popular for household linens that needed to be both beautiful and functional.

Clustered open-work creates decorative patterns by winding threads around grouped fabric threads within drawn-thread lanes. This technique produces elegant knotted effects that add texture and visual interest to open-work borders.