From the Original Text
“Making stitches.—Bring the cotton forward, put it round the needle from front to back, knit the next stitch. This makes an additional stitch, and is used for widening the work.”
— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886
Modern Step-by-Step Instructions
Making stitches (yarn over increases) is the fundamental technique for adding stitches to create shaped garments, decorative lacework, and proper fit. This essential increasing method creates deliberate holes that can be decorative in lace patterns or nearly invisible when worked strategically for shaping purposes.
What You’ll Need
- Knitting needles — Appropriate size for chosen yarn
- Practice yarn — Smooth yarn shows increases clearly
- Stitch markers — For marking increase placement
- Row counter — Helpful for tracking increase frequency
- Pattern instructions — Clear guidance for increase placement and frequency
How to Work the Making Stitches
- Bring yarn forward between needle tips to front of work.
- Take yarn over right needle from front to back.
- Knit next stitch normally after completing the yarn over.
- Continue according to pattern maintaining proper stitch count.
- On following row work the yarn over as directed (usually purl).
- Check stitch count to ensure increases are placed correctly.
- For invisible increases work yarn over through back loop to close hole.
- For decorative lace work yarn over normally to maintain holes.
Expert Tips for the Perfect Making Stitches
- Keep yarn over motion consistent to maintain even hole size
- Count stitches regularly to track increase progression
- Use stitch markers to mark increase points in complex patterns
- For shaping, pair increases with decreases for balanced construction
- Practice different increase methods for various applications
- Block lace patterns to open yarn over holes properly
Traditional Uses
Making stitches was essential for Victorian knitted garment construction:
- Sleeve shaping — Creating fitted armholes and sleeve caps
- Bust darts — Adding fullness for proper bodice fit
- Lace patterns — Creating decorative openwork designs
- Shawl construction — Increasing from center to create triangular shapes
- Gusset insertion — Adding fabric for movement and fit
- Decorative edgings — Creating scalloped and shaped borders
- Pattern adjustments — Modifying fit and proportions
Historical Note
Making stitches represented the technical foundation for sophisticated garment shaping that characterized accomplished Victorian knitting. Before the availability of commercial patterns with standardized sizing, knitters needed to understand increase techniques to create properly fitted garments for diverse body types. De Dillmont’s systematic approach to teaching increases reflects the era’s emphasis on technical precision and mathematical understanding in needlework. The technique’s dual application—both functional shaping and decorative lace work—exemplified the Victorian ideal of combining utility with beauty. Skilled use of increases distinguished professional-quality hand-knitting from amateur work, enabling the creation of fitted bodices, shaped sleeves, and elegant lace accessories that competed with expensive manufactured goods. This technique represented the mathematical precision that Victorian society valued in all domestic arts.
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