From the Original Text

“Chain stitch forms the foundation of all crochet work. Make a slip loop on the hook, then draw the thread through the loop to form each successive chain. Keep the tension even and work rhythmically to create a uniform chain that will serve as the starting point for all crochet patterns.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

Chain stitch is the absolute foundation of crochet work—the essential technique that every crocheter must master before progressing to any other stitch. These interlocking loops create the starting foundation for virtually all crochet projects, from simple scarves to complex lace patterns. Proper chain technique ensures even tension and sets the stage for successful crochet work.

What You’ll Need

  • Crochet hook — Size appropriate for your yarn weight
  • Yarn or thread — Any weight suitable for your project
  • Good lighting — To see individual chain loops clearly
  • Comfortable seating — For relaxed, steady hand movement
  • Pattern or guide — Showing required number of chains

How to Work the Chain Stitch

  1. Make a slip knot and place it on your crochet hook.
  2. Hold the hook in your dominant hand like a pencil or knife.
  3. Hold the yarn in your other hand, maintaining gentle tension.
  4. Yarn over the hook by wrapping yarn around the hook from back to front.
  5. Draw through the loop on your hook to create the first chain.
  6. Repeat yarning over and drawing through for each additional chain.
  7. Count your chains as you work to maintain accuracy.
  8. Keep tension consistent throughout the foundation chain.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Chain Stitch

  • Keep your foundation chain slightly loose—tight chains are difficult to work into
  • Practice maintaining consistent chain size before starting complex projects
  • Count chains carefully—an incorrect foundation affects the entire project
  • Use stitch markers to mark specific chain counts in long foundations
  • Don’t count the slip knot or the loop on your hook as chains
  • Practice the yarn-over motion until it becomes smooth and automatic
  • Consider using a larger hook for foundation chains to ensure easy working
  • Keep your yarn hand relaxed to maintain even tension

Traditional Uses

Chain stitch serves multiple essential functions in crochet work:

  • Foundation chains — Starting base for most crochet projects
  • Turning chains — Height adjustments when changing rows
  • Spacing chains — Creating gaps and openwork in lace patterns
  • Button loops — Functional closures for garments
  • Decorative loops — Surface embellishment and fringe effects
  • Joining chains — Connecting separate motifs or sections
  • Cord making — Standalone chains for ties and drawstrings

Historical Note

Chain stitch represents the fundamental principle of crochet—the continuous interlocking of loops using a single hook. This technique evolved from earlier needlework traditions but achieved unique characteristics through the use of the specialized crochet hook. During the Victorian era, crochet became hugely popular as it allowed for rapid creation of both practical and decorative items. De Dillmont’s emphasis on proper foundation technique reflected the understanding that good results depend on solid beginnings. The chain stitch’s simplicity made crochet accessible to people of all social classes, democratizing textile creation in a way that more complex needlework techniques could not achieve.

Own the Complete Encyclopedia

The Encyclopedia of Needlework contains over 800 pages of stitches, patterns, and techniques.
Get your own hardcover reprint of this 1886 masterpiece.