From the Original Text
“Bullion stitch.—Put the cotton 6 or 8 times round the needle, insert it into the work, and draw the cotton and the needle through. This stitch should be worked rather tightly.”
— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886
Modern Step-by-Step Instructions
The bullion stitch creates distinctive raised, cylindrical elements that stand out dramatically from the fabric surface. This advanced technique requires considerable skill and patience but produces unique textural effects that cannot be achieved through any other method. The multiple wraps create substantial dimensional interest perfect for special decorative applications.
What You’ll Need
- Smooth, strong yarn — Must withstand multiple wrapping without breaking
- Sharp-pointed hook — Essential for easier pulling through multiple wraps
- Excellent tension control — Critical for successful bullion formation
- Patience and practice — This is one of the most challenging crochet techniques
- Good lighting — Essential for seeing the complex wrap structure
How to Work the Bullion Stitch
- Insert hook into the designated stitch.
- Wrap yarn 6-8 times around the hook shaft, keeping wraps snug but not tight.
- Hold wraps firmly with your non-hook hand to prevent unwinding.
- Yarn over once more and carefully draw through all wraps and the original loop.
- Pull gently but firmly until the wraps compress into a raised cylinder.
- Secure with chain or continue pattern as directed.
- Check formation to ensure the bullion stands properly raised.
- Continue pattern maintaining consistent wrap count for uniform effects.
Expert Tips for the Perfect Bullion Stitch
- Practice extensively on swatches before attempting project pieces
- Keep wraps evenly spaced and snug but not overly tight
- Use a hook with a smooth shaft to help wraps slide off easily
- Work slowly and deliberately—rushing creates uneven bullions
- Count wraps carefully for consistent size throughout your work
- Consider this stitch for accent areas rather than large expanses
Traditional Uses
Bullion stitch created dramatic effects for special occasions and artistic work:
- Luxury trim — Adding substantial dimensional borders
- Floral motifs — Creating realistic flower centers and stamens
- Decorative medallions — Central elements for doilies and table linens
- Ceremonial items — Special pieces requiring the most advanced techniques
- Artistic hangings — Dimensional wall pieces showcasing technical skill
- Wedding accessories — Impressive items demonstrating devotion and skill
- Exhibition pieces — Showwork displaying mastery of complex techniques
Historical Note
The bullion stitch represented the absolute pinnacle of technical achievement in Victorian crochet, requiring such skill that it marked the transition from competent needleworker to true master. This technique’s complexity made it suitable only for the most accomplished practitioners, and its inclusion in De Dillmont’s encyclopedia shows how comprehensive needlework education was expected to be. The dramatic three-dimensional effects of bullion work reflected the Victorian love of sculptural decoration and technical virtuosity. Items featuring bullion stitches were often preserved as heirloom pieces, demonstrating not only the maker’s skill but also representing considerable investment of time and effort. This stitch embodied the Victorian belief that the most beautiful and valuable items required the greatest skill and patience to create.
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