From the Original Text

“Ornamental hem—For an ornamental hem, make a turning, 2 or 3 c/m. deep, and run in a thread, with small running-stitches up and down, as shown in fig. 23. By slightly drawing the thread, the straight edge will be made to look as if it were scalloped.”

— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886

Modern Step-by-Step Instructions

The ornamental hem transforms a straight edge into an elegant scalloped appearance through clever use of running stitches and controlled gathering. This ingenious technique creates decorative effects without complex cutting or shaping.

What You’ll Need

  • Any fabric — Works with most woven materials
  • Matching thread — Cotton thread in fabric color
  • Sharp needle — Size appropriate for running stitches
  • Ruler — For measuring consistent hem depth (2-3 cm)
  • Fabric pencil — Optional for marking turning line
  • Iron — For pressing the hem fold

How to Work the Ornamental Hem

  1. Create deep turning 2-3 centimeters (about 3/4 to 1 inch) deep.
  2. Press hem fold to create a crisp, straight edge.
  3. Run thread through hem using small, even running stitches.
  4. Work in up-and-down pattern as shown in the original figure.
  5. Keep stitches small and consistent for best gathering effect.
  6. Draw thread slightly to create gentle scalloped appearance.
  7. Adjust gathering until desired scalloped effect is achieved.

Expert Tips for the Perfect Ornamental Hem

  • Use a deeper hem (2-3 cm) to accommodate the gathering without bulk
  • Keep running stitches small and even for consistent scalloped effect
  • Draw the gathering thread gradually—too much will create puckering
  • Work the up-and-down pattern systematically for even distribution
  • Press lightly after gathering to set the scalloped shape
  • This technique works best on lightweight to medium-weight fabrics
  • Practice the gathering tension on scraps first

Traditional Uses

Ornamental hems added decorative flair to everyday and special linens:

  • Kitchen linens — Dish towels and table runners
  • Bedroom textiles — Decorative pillowcases and bed skirts
  • Children’s clothing — Aprons, dresses, and play clothes
  • Household curtains — Simple window treatments
  • Everyday napkins — Family dining table linens
  • Work aprons — Practical garments with decorative touches
  • Casual handkerchiefs — Daily use accessories

Historical Note

The ornamental hem represented ingenious Victorian problem-solving—how to create decorative scalloped edges without the skill required for true scalloping. This technique was particularly valued because it allowed ordinary seamstresses to achieve elegant effects on everyday items. De Dillmont’s inclusion of this method in her encyclopedia shows how practical decoration was prized in an era when even utilitarian items were expected to show care and artistry. The technique remains useful today for adding interest to simple projects without complex sewing skills.

The ornamental hem transforms a straight edge into an elegant scalloped appearance through clever use of running stitches and controlled gathering. This ingenious technique creates decorative effects without complex cutting or shaping.