From the Original Text
“Fig. 17 shows another kind of double seam, where the two edges are laid together, turned in twice, and hemmed in the ordinary manner, with the sole difference, that the needle has to pass through a sixfold layer of stuff.”
— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886
Modern Step-by-Step Instructions
The open hemmed double seam is a specialized variation that handles six layers of fabric, creating an exceptionally strong and bulky seam. This technique was essential for heavy-duty applications where maximum strength was required.
What You’ll Need
- Heavy fabric — Sturdy materials like canvas, duck, or heavy cotton
- Extra-strong thread — Heavy-duty thread appropriate for thick seams
- Large needle — Strong needle capable of penetrating six fabric layers
- Thimble — Essential for pushing needle through thick layers
- Heavy-duty scissors — For cutting through multiple fabric layers
- Seam roller or bone folder — For pressing bulky seams flat
How to Work the Open Hemmed Double Seam
- Lay edges together aligning them perfectly for consistent folding.
- Turn both edges in twice creating a double fold on each piece.
- Position folds together so you have six layers of fabric total.
- Begin hemming normally but be prepared for the increased thickness.
- Use strong pressure with thimble to push needle through all layers.
- Keep stitches even despite the bulk—consistency is key.
- Press seam well using heavy pressure to flatten the bulk.
Expert Tips for the Perfect Open Hemmed Double Seam
- Use the largest needle that will still create neat stitches
- Go slowly—rushing will bend needles and create uneven stitches
- Rock the needle back and forth to ease it through thick areas
- Use a seam roller rather than iron to avoid creating permanent creases
- Pre-punch holes with awl if fabric is extremely thick
- Choose extra-strong thread—regular thread may break under stress
- Consider hand-quilting needles for better penetration power
Traditional Uses
Open hemmed double seams were reserved for the heaviest-duty applications:
- Canvas work — Sail-making and heavy canvas goods
- Upholstery — Joining heavy furniture fabrics
- Industrial textiles — Work clothing and protective gear
- Outdoor gear — Tents, awnings, and weather protection
- Heavy household linens — Thick blankets and coverlets
- Workwear — Aprons, smocks, and protective clothing
- Bag making — Heavy-duty satchels and equipment bags
Historical Note
The open hemmed double seam represented the ultimate in hand-sewn strength before industrial machinery. This technique was essential in trades requiring maximum durability—sailmakers, tentmakers, and upholsterers relied on it for seams that had to withstand tremendous stress. The six-layer construction created such bulk that only the strongest seamsters could execute it properly. As industrial sewing machines became available, this labor-intensive technique was among the first to be mechanized, though hand-sewn versions remained prized for their superior durability in specialized applications.
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