From the Original Text
“Purling.—This stitch is used to make raised patterns and ribbing. Bring the cotton to the front, put the needle through from right to left, bring the cotton once round the needle from right to left, and draw it through the stitch.”
— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886
Modern Step-by-Step Instructions
Purling is the fundamental technique for creating ribbed textures and raised patterns in knitting. When alternated with plain stitches in various combinations, purling enables the creation of elastic ribbing, textured patterns, and the stockinette stitch that forms the basis of most knitted garments. This essential skill opens the door to sophisticated pattern knitting.
What You’ll Need
- Knitting needles — Same size as used for plain stitches
- Practice yarn — Smooth, light-colored worsted weight
- Row counter — Helpful for tracking ribbing patterns
- Stitch markers — For marking pattern repeats
- Patience for practice — Building smooth purl technique takes time
How to Work the Purling
- Bring yarn to front of work before starting purl stitch.
- Insert right needle into first stitch from back to front.
- Wrap yarn counterclockwise around right needle tip.
- Draw yarn back through stitch, pulling toward you.
- Let old stitch drop off left needle.
- Repeat for ribbing alternating with knit stitches as desired.
- For K1, P1 ribbing move yarn between needles for each stitch change.
- Continue pattern consistently to create elastic ribbed fabric.
Expert Tips for the Perfect Purling
- Keep yarn in front consistently—the most common mistake
- Move yarn between needles efficiently when alternating knit/purl
- Maintain even tension across both knit and purl stitches
- Practice K1, P1 ribbing to develop smooth transitions
- Count stitches in ribbing patterns to avoid losing track
- Use lifelines when learning complex knit/purl patterns
Traditional Uses
Purling was essential for sophisticated Victorian knitted garments:
- Ribbed cuffs and hems — Elastic edges for fitted garments
- Waistbands — Stretchy bands for skirts and undergarments
- Necklines — Finished edges that hold their shape
- Pattern panels — Textural designs in garment bodies
- Decorative borders — Raised patterns for visual interest
- Shaped garments — Creating fitted silhouettes through stitch manipulation
- Sock tops — Elastic upper portions for proper fit
Historical Note
Purling represented the mastery of knitting’s dual nature—the ability to create both smooth and textured surfaces that enabled sophisticated garment construction. During the Victorian era, a woman’s ability to execute clean, even ribbing was considered a mark of accomplished needlework skill. De Dillmont’s emphasis on “raised patterns” reflects the period’s appreciation for textural variety in handmade items. The technique’s importance for creating fitted garments made it essential during an age when properly shaped, comfortable clothing depended entirely on the maker’s skill. Victorian knitting patterns often featured complex arrangements of knit and purl stitches that created elaborate textural effects, demonstrating that functional needlework could also be highly decorative. Purling skill enabled knitters to progress from basic rectangular pieces to the fitted, shaped garments that Victorian fashion demanded.
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