From the Original Text
“Plain stitch.—Pass the right needle through the first loop on the left needle, from left to right, bring the cotton forward between the two needles, draw it through the loop with the right needle, which will form a fresh loop, let the old loop drop off the left needle.”
— Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1886
Modern Step-by-Step Instructions
The plain stitch (knit stitch) is the absolute foundation of all knitting. This basic stitch creates the smooth, “right side” of stockinette fabric and forms the building block for countless knitting patterns. Mastering the plain stitch with consistent tension and smooth motion is essential before progressing to more complex techniques.
What You’ll Need
- Knitting needles — Start with size 8 (5mm) for learning
- Worsted weight yarn — Smooth, light-colored yarn shows stitches clearly
- Scissors — For cutting yarn
- Tapestry needle — For weaving in ends
- Patience — Building muscle memory takes practice
How to Work the Plain Stitch
- Hold needles with cast-on stitches in your left hand, empty needle in right.
- Insert right needle through first stitch from front to back, left to right.
- Wrap working yarn counterclockwise around right needle tip.
- Draw wrapped yarn through the stitch using right needle tip.
- Slide old stitch off left needle, keeping new stitch on right needle.
- Repeat across all stitches until left needle is empty.
- Turn work and transfer needles to repeat the process.
- Continue rows to build fabric and develop consistent tension.
Expert Tips for the Perfect Plain Stitch
- Keep consistent but relaxed tension—too tight makes stitches hard to work
- Let the needles do the work; don’t force or pull the yarn
- Practice the “scoop and pull” motion until it becomes automatic
- Count stitches regularly to catch dropped stitches early
- Work slowly at first; speed comes naturally with practice
- Use smooth, non-splitty yarn while learning the basic motions
Traditional Uses
The plain stitch formed the foundation for essential Victorian knitted items:
- Stockings and socks — Basic garments requiring smooth, fitted fabric
- Undergarments — Chemises, drawers, and fitted foundation pieces
- Sweaters and cardigans — Outer garments for warmth and protection
- Baby clothes — Soft, comfortable garments for infants
- Household linens — Dishcloths, washcloths, and utility items
- Mittens and gloves — Essential winter accessories
- Caps and scarves — Warm accessories for cold weather
Historical Note
The plain stitch represents one of humanity’s oldest textile techniques, with knitted fragments found in Egyptian tombs dating to the 5th century. During the Victorian era, knitting was essential domestic skill that every woman was expected to master. De Dillmont’s precise description reflects the period’s emphasis on technical accuracy and systematic instruction. The plain stitch’s fundamental importance meant it was taught to children as young as four or five, often using wooden or bone needles. Victorian knitting served both practical necessity—providing warm, fitted garments for entire families—and social function, as women gathered for “knitting circles” that combined productivity with community building. The technique’s portability made it ideal for busy Victorian women who could knit while traveling, visiting, or supervising children.
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